by Eleanor Moyer, Extension Master Gardener℠ Volunteer of Clay County
One delight of summer is picking fresh zucchini to sauté with salmon or steak, or biting into a cheesy squash casserole made from a freshly harvested crookneck variety. I enjoyed an hors dourves of ratatouille over a toasted baguette slice a few nights ago which tasted just like summer! Even though my mouth is watering just thinking about squash, it does come with a caveat—if you grow squash, you will be open to diseases and pests of all kinds. It’s really a plant for a daily gardener.
There are two types of this beautiful, native plant from the cucurbit family: summer squash and winter squash. Both grow in summer, but basically have different storage and harvesting capabilities. Today we’ll concentrate on the summer variety. Be sure to take a close look at a seed catalog or a large seed display to discover the many intriguing varieties and disease resistant capabilities. Some are beautiful enough for a table centerpiece.
Don’t rush to plant as they require the soil to be 70º. You can cover the planting area with black plastic to help it warm up. Squash needs to get full sun (preferably 8 hours) to produce the most fruit and rich soil with good drainage. They take up a lot of garden real estate, 2 to 3 square feet per plant. None of the members of the cucurbit family like to be transplanted, so seeds really are the way to go and the most economical. Companion plants may help deter pests. Marigolds and nasturtiums repel squash bugs and attract beneficial insects. Sage may be an added agent against the squash vine borer and thyme against aphids. In the ground, make a small hill of compost enriched soil. Plant 2 to 3 seeds per mound, spaced every 3 to 4 feet at a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch. You won’t need a mound if you plant in a raised bed. Seeds should germinate in 5 to 10 days (check the seed packet). Thin to 1 plant per mound. Like many veggies, squash needs at least 1 inch of water per week. Try for a good soaking once or twice a week below the leaves to help thwart powdery mildew. Naturally an installed irrigation system will help with this.
It helps to know your soil. Phosphorus is necessary for fruit production and sufficient calcium will prevent an overabundance of male flowers and blossom end rot. Don’t be afraid to prune away some of the leaves especially those near the soil to help with air circulation and pest prevention. Row covers are the best organic way to keep pests at bay. Once the plants develop flowers remove the covers during the day for fertilization to occur. Check the leaves and stems of your plants daily. Remove critters and/or their eggs (drop in soapy water). If you notice yellowy-brown spots on the leaves, it could be leaf blight. Remove and destroy the leaves. Spray with a baking soda solution of 1 Tbl baking soda, 1 tsp castile soap to a gallon of water. Spray in the evening when the blossoms have closed to prevent damaging the hard
working pollinators. This solution will also work against powdery mildew. There are retail chemical products that also help.
The biggest is not necessarily the best when harvesting fruit. Check daily to pick the fruit at its prime. Leave a bit of stem on each fruit. Happy gardening!
